Lucknow’s Chikankari artisans on no parties agenda

Courtesy – the net

In a city where chikankari is considered a crowning jewel and has takers not just in India but overseas, the ignorance of politicians towards the plight of the industry is rather worrisome

For any state its industries are the key indicators of how the government has fared. Each time someone from outside comes to the city of Lucknow, he or she has this customary demand to get their hands on some chikan craft fabric. The who’s who have often used the prestigious chikan work to spruce up their wardrobe, but when it comes to the worker in town, life is not all smooth sailing.

In election season, this time apart from the usual hyperbole, political parties have steered cleared of main issues. It is no surprise that Chikan handicraft workers are nowhere in the scheme of things for politicians in the city. There remains little or no mention of them.

Despite tough times being faced by the industry since as early as 2012, successive governments have turned a complete blind eye towards them.

While Lucknow goes to vote in the fifth phase on May 6, the chikan craftsmen face the brunt of imposition of GST and demonetisation. These have proved to be a body blow for them.

Half a million artisans, mostly poor women are part of the craft. A crucial part of the way of life for minorities, it has never figured in manifestoes.

Demo, GST coupled with problems like insufficient market information on export trends, opportunities, scarcity of raw material, lack of financing and competition, life has been unkind for chikankari workers.

Furthermore Chikankari handiwork made in China is further proving to be a curse for Lucknow based Chikan workers.

Promoting Chikankari as part of the Nawabi legacy, the royalties have been quoted as saying even though exporters and traders make profits, artists are paid only Rs 50 a day.

Industry body suggestions have included the idea of centres for skill training, product adaptation, vocational training and entrepreneurship development.

Chikankari workers reportedly grapple with problems like Missed EMIs, work without pay and shift in business.

Many of whom have been forced to shut shop.

Chikankari came to India owing to the efforts of Shah Jahan’s wife Nur Jahan, who introduced it in the 15th century. Originally Delhi was the hub for Chikankari. The legacy was carried forward by Bahadur Shah Zafar. His death led to shifting base in Lucknow.

It was thanks to late PM Atal Behari Vajpayee that Chikan was kept out of the tax ambit in 2003.

Nearly 14 years hence, that changed with Finance Minister Arun Jaitley bringing chikan under GST.

In Lucknow estimates show around 10,000 traders are part of the chikankari trade, most in Chowk. Over 550,000 skilled and unskilled workers are also part of the chikan making process.

Notably, traders have knocked on the doors of the state government but their calls have fallen on deaf ears.

Chikan involves 36 different stitching techniques combined with embellishments likes pearls and mirrors.

Until recently there have been reports that popular hotspots like Aminabad and Chowk where footfall has gone down at chikan centres.

Zardozi workers are mainly found in the area between Akbari gate and Gol darwaja in the walled city.

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