When in Lucknow, you do what the Lucknowites do with pomp and a little bit of the Awadhi charm. You savour the one of a kind Tundey kabab, whose genesis dates back to almost a century back.
While the average Lucknowite cannot do without it and finds one reason or the other to have this one of a kind delicacy, which for many is the crowning glory of Awadh, the story of how Tundey happened is an interesting one.
In a city that has caught the fancy of poets, songwriters and those who are lovers of everything history, Tundey kabab got its name from a one armed chef who possibly did not know that one day his creation in the culinary world will become the most sought after meaty delight for generations to cherish.
As per historians minced meat wonders were relished as breakfast in 14th century Awadh. In 17th century however kebabs of Awadh saw a revolution and one can only thank a toothless Nawab for this.
Things changed drastically under Nawab Asa-ud-Daula. The biggest Awadhi culinary gems came out from the kitchens of his khansamas. With the Nawab ageing he started losing his teeth but the nawab was not one to let go of his high life. He ordered for a kebab to be created that needed no chewing. The melt-in-your-mouth Galouti kebabs are said to be the outcome of the same contest. Since then, kebabs became softer and softer through generations paving way for the succulent Tundey Kebabs as we know it. The shop by Haji Murad Ali came into being around the end of the 17th century. The kebabs here continue to follow a closely guarded secret family recipe. It uses a whopping 160 different spices.
Tundey Kebabs were named after a physical characteristic of the kebab maker, Haji Murad Ali the kebab maker had one working arm.
Legend has it, Haji Ali was working on perfecting the mixture of the shahi galawat, when he fell off the roof and broke his one arm. Made in a batch of 25- 30kebabs, the kebabs are cooked in ghee in dum style.
Originally established in the Gol darwaza vicinity of Lucknow’s chowk area in 1905, it was here Haji – Murad ali, fondly remembered as ‘Tunday kababi’ sold his delicious kababs for 90 years.
Under the patronage of Wajid Ali Shah, Murad Ali’s son set shop at the old Chowk of Lucknow in 1905 that became popular as Tundey Kebabi.
In 1996, third generation family members Usman Ali and Rizwan Ali decided inaugurating a branch in Aminabad area of Lucknow. The popular eatery has been graced by famous people like Dilip Kumar, Shah Rukh Khan and Anupam Kher to name a few.
Both Kapoorthala’s Tundey Tower and the Tundey outlet at Lekhraj market are part of that rich tradition.
Historically speaking , as per Moroccan traveller, Ibn Battuta, kebabs were served in the royal houses as early as 1200 AD when kebabs and naan were a runaway hit in early morning breakfasts.
When Alexander the Great met King Porus, he was, to his surprise, offered meat mish-mashes that were similar to kebab of Greece. In Oudh though Sadat Ali Khan is the man behind the entry of these kebabs.
By the reign of Siraj Ud Daula, kebabs changed very little, this even though the idea of minced meat had started trickling in.
Interestingly the same Asa – Ud Daula credited for the architectural masterpieces (the pillar-less Bara Imambara and Roomi darwaza) was behind the genesis of the Tundey Kebabi.
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